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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 3:10 pm 
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Even for my professional use, all I really need is a word processor and a spreadsheet. I actually believe that at home, I'll have more use for a multimedia computer. It's so easy to capture video now, and with my kids being so active, I see that as being an important need. I couldn't do that with the Dell even though that's what we thought we'd use it for (primarily because the software wasn't included). iLife comes bundled with the OS and I'm looking forward to playing with the multimedia tools to begin playing with that.

I'll have to check out VMware... Thanks for the tip!


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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 3:19 pm 
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the Cunning Linguist wrote:
Even for my professional use, all I really need is a word processor and a spreadsheet. I actually believe that at home, I'll have more use for a multimedia computer. It's so easy to capture video now, and with my kids being so active, I see that as being an important need. I couldn't do that with the Dell even though that's what we thought we'd use it for (primarily because the software wasn't included). iLife comes bundled with the OS and I'm looking forward to playing with the multimedia tools to begin playing with that.

I'll have to check out VMware... Thanks for the tip!


I shouldn't have used the term VMware as it is a proprietary name of a specific virtual machine product. Check out Paralells if you ever need it, was pretty simple to install and use and it's nice not to have to boot out of one OS to another, although running both can suck up the process power so it's best only done for a few specifics needs.

http://www.parallels.com/ca/

The really sweet thing about running a VM install is once you create it, you back it up and if you even encounter a problem just delete and replace with the original, no more reinstalling Winblows.

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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 4:15 pm 
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harmfuljays wrote:
HP update is f'n evil. I doubt that anyone every quality tests it before its released through HP update. It was notoriously bad with Vista. I dropped Vista and went to Windows 7. First thing you need to do is System restore and then disable HP update. I have a HP Pav Elite that is 3-4 years old. It still rocks. You shouldn't need a new one. Just get rid of Vista. I can help you but we'll have to take it offline. PM me.


Thanks bud I will likely take you up on this at a later date. I knew it was that f'n HP update. We are getting a new computer now for other reasons, but I don't want to toss this one if it can be fixed. When I get around to trying to fix it I will PM you.

Wife wants to move the old computer area to make room for more kids stuff so small footprint with minimal mess of cords is going to be really key now. I am hesitant about the all-in-ones but will probably take another look.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 12:24 pm 
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Anyone up to date on current PC hardware? Thinking about upgrading the MB/CPU/RAM on my box.

I had suggestions to with the Intel i5:

http://ncix.com/products/?sku=57963&vpn ... ture=Intel

or the new AMD chipset:

http://ncix.com/products/?sku=64404&vpn ... acture=AMD


Any thoughts? Looking to spend in the $400-500 or so range, the package for the Intel was like $40 cheaper I think. I don't really plan on doing any overclocking.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 11:32 am 
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Where are all the hard drives under $85? There is seriously nothing brand new to be found for under $85 here. I just want a regular SATA 250GB or close to that.

Bought the Intel i5 2500K unlocked processor, ASUS board, 8GB of Kingston HyperX RAM. Also picked up a 750W Modular OCZ power supply for super cheap - $39 after rebate and a Corsair Carbide 400R case for $65 after rebate. Not upgrading the video card yet.

Hopefully my Raptor 36GB drive works again so I can install Windows 7 and use the 250 and 320GB drives in the new box, rather than keeping the 250 in the old box. I've got 2 IDE drives for the old box. A 40GB I know still works which I want to use to install Fedora Core 16, and an 80GB that I'm not sure if it still works(formatting wouldn't finish). I'll try installing XP on that and see if it works, then install Fedora and the boot loader on the 40.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 5:58 pm 
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Bosc wrote:
Where are all the hard drives under $85? There is seriously nothing brand new to be found for under $85 here. I just want a regular SATA 250GB or close to that.


Hmm, the flooding in Thailand where over 40% of HDs are made shut down WD and Seagate factories for a while, reducing supply...

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 7:17 pm 
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yep, don`t buy and HD! bad timing

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 10:48 pm 
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Bosc wrote:
Bosc wrote:
Where are all the hard drives under $85? There is seriously nothing brand new to be found for under $85 here. I just want a regular SATA 250GB or close to that.


Hmm, the flooding in Thailand where over 40% of HDs are made shut down WD and Seagate factories for a while, reducing supply...

I thought that was fairly well-known and documented? NOT a good time to be buying HDs at the moment... Last year at about this time, I picked up an external WD HD, new, USB 2.0, 1TB for about $90 at BB... I think the same drive would probably have gone for $60 this holiday season but for that flood in Thailand. That same drive sells for $107... Refurbed... Wait a few months and the price should come back down to earth...


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 1:44 am 
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the Cunning Linguist wrote:
Bosc wrote:
Bosc wrote:
Where are all the hard drives under $85? There is seriously nothing brand new to be found for under $85 here. I just want a regular SATA 250GB or close to that.


Hmm, the flooding in Thailand where over 40% of HDs are made shut down WD and Seagate factories for a while, reducing supply...

I thought that was fairly well-known and documented? NOT a good time to be buying HDs at the moment... Last year at about this time, I picked up an external WD HD, new, USB 2.0, 1TB for about $90 at BB... I think the same drive would probably have gone for $60 this holiday season but for that flood in Thailand. That same drive sells for $107... Refurbed... Wait a few months and the price should come back down to earth...


I never thought about it until I started looking at HD prices...I don't really need one at the moment unless one of my SATAs screw up, and I've got a 2TB external I picked up a couple of years ago, so I'm good for now. Even if one screws up, I'll just keep the older comp offline for a while.

Building is in progress. I still have to change and install video cards, install some fans, mess around more with the HDs and hook up some cables. Then the OS install. I think my 80GB IDE drive might be done...

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 11:17 am 
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I love my NASS 2 TB Western Digital. I would recommend it to anyone looking for a Home Network Storage option (go with the 3 TB though). Yikes...I see what you mean though...they want $300 for the 3 TB.....I think I got my 2 TB for less than $150 and they are now over $200.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 1:26 am 
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Nice...new comp is up and running with Windows 7 installed and running on my 36GB Raptor drive. I think the boot record might have been fucked before but it's fixed now! Takes like 20 seconds to boot up! Now to hook up my 320GB to install everything on.

Damn Corsair didn't include the screws I need to mount fans on the top and side of the case. Might have to improvise with some washers. I also need to get the screws for the A50 CPU Heatsink I bought from my brother-in-law if he can still find them.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 11:57 am 
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hammer wrote:
harmfuljays wrote:
HP update is f'n evil. I doubt that anyone every quality tests it before its released through HP update. It was notoriously bad with Vista. I dropped Vista and went to Windows 7. First thing you need to do is System restore and then disable HP update. I have a HP Pav Elite that is 3-4 years old. It still rocks. You shouldn't need a new one. Just get rid of Vista. I can help you but we'll have to take it offline. PM me.


Thanks bud I will likely take you up on this at a later date. I knew it was that f'n HP update. We are getting a new computer now for other reasons, but I don't want to toss this one if it can be fixed. When I get around to trying to fix it I will PM you.

Wife wants to move the old computer area to make room for more kids stuff so small footprint with minimal mess of cords is going to be really key now. I am hesitant about the all-in-ones but will probably take another look.


Hamry I sent you a PM but thought I'd open this up in case it helps anybody else. I found another use for this old PC so I want to wipe the hard drive clean and then install windows 7. What is the best / easiest / cheapest way to do this?

thanks in advance for any advice guys.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 12:28 pm 
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This should do it for you. http://pcsupport.about.com/od/operatingsystems/ss/windows-7-clean-install-part-1.htm


The only only consideration is whether it is possible there was virus involved or not in the piror install? If possible then best to do find your harddrive manf and then find their utility for low level format. This will complete clean the HD including the master boot record which are sometimes used to hide viruses as a regular OS pre format won't touch this.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 12:33 pm 
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I always format on a Windows install. Maybe just an old habit that is not needed anymore, but like to know the drive is empty and clean.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 11:01 am 
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Can someone explain to me why my wireless router needs to be re-booted about once every couple of months? This past week, I noticed that my N-router was crawling along at about 0.5 to 0.7 Mps up and 2-3 Mps down... This is what we principally use for our newer wireless devices that take an N-adapter... The G-router, which I primarily use for older devices (I think one older PC, and Xbox Live) was humming along nicely at about 16Mps up and 6Mps down.

I unplugged these from the power for about 30 seconds, reconnected and the N-router came back to life, humming along at 16/6...

Also, is there any downside to connecting these routers in series off of the cable modem? I remember reading something about this that it should be a no-no, but I've been using these in this way for some time now with no problems.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 2:54 pm 
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My old Dlink used to act up like that all time as well as my parents, now we have Linksys and they run great.

Just build a box with i5 intel, Asus Sata3 motherboard, 8gb memory, and a Sata3 SSD 120 Gb drive for OS and applications. Not sure why I didn't get around to this sooner really pleased with the performance. Just threw in a 512mb video card I already had and 320 GB data drive but can upgrade those when feel I need too.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 3:23 pm 
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Hounsy wrote:
My old Dlink used to act up like that all time as well as my parents, now we have Linksys and they run great.

Just build a box with i5 intel, Asus Sata3 motherboard, 8gb memory, and a Sata3 SSD 120 Gb drive for OS and applications. Not sure why I didn't get around to this sooner really pleased with the performance. Just threw in a 512mb video card I already had and 320 GB data drive but can upgrade those when feel I need too.


I wrote:
Bought the Intel i5 2500K unlocked processor, ASUS board, 8GB of Kingston HyperX RAM. Also picked up a 750W Modular OCZ power supply for super cheap - $39 after rebate and a Corsair Carbide 400R case for $65 after rebate. Not upgrading the video card yet.

Hopefully my Raptor 36GB drive works again so I can install Windows 7 and use the 250 and 320GB drives in the new box, rather than keeping the 250 in the old box.


Nice work!

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 3:41 pm 
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haha that's funny really similar.

Haven't added a processor to a board in years, they are much more idiot proof now than they used to be.

Here is my parts for decent performance on a budget.

case http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_ ... _id=037678
Power supply http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_ ... _id=033351
CPU http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_ ... _id=035527
Board http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_ ... _id=036785
memory http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_ ... _id=035766
SSD drive http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_ ... _id=037112


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 4:00 pm 
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Hounsy wrote:
My old Dlink used to act up like that all time as well as my parents, now we have Linksys and they run great.


I'd have to agree...Its called DLink....sorry. I have a Netgear WNR3500L ($70) that supports Gig connections. I daisy chain my old Linksys WRT54G as a hub. Everything I have purchased DLink is garbage. The WNR3500L can take open source code....I have yet to dick with that though.

Does the DLink Autochannel?

My Problem was with the old Motorola Surfboard modems....what crap! i replaced them with a Linksys CM-100 and it was beautiful....now Comcast seems to have upgraded their modems and I haven't had a problem with it since.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 4:27 pm 
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the Cunning Linguist wrote:
Can someone explain to me why my wireless router needs to be re-booted about once every couple of months? This past week, I noticed that my N-router was crawling along at about 0.5 to 0.7 Mps up and 2-3 Mps down... This is what we principally use for our newer wireless devices that take an N-adapter... The G-router, which I primarily use for older devices (I think one older PC, and Xbox Live) was humming along nicely at about 16Mps up and 6Mps down.

I unplugged these from the power for about 30 seconds, reconnected and the N-router came back to life, humming along at 16/6...

Also, is there any downside to connecting these routers in series off of the cable modem? I remember reading something about this that it should be a no-no, but I've been using these in this way for some time now with no problems.


What can I say, it's wireless, The tech behind it is stupidly complex, when it works well it's wonderful and when not its a pain to troubleshoot. Used to manage an Aruba wireless network. Good equipment $3k a pop for a wireless airport and I still had to periodically and inexplicably reboot them at times.

The speeds you mention are at least inconsistent, you should be equal up and down and top out at around 19Mbps on G. Can't recall N though put but it should be in excess of 100 Mbps. Do you have much interference in your area and is your router able to and set to allowed to search out the least interferred band?

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