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 Post subject: Re: Surfing
PostPosted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 3:11 pm 
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That's a sick looking board hammer!

I'm still happiest in 3 - 5 foot clean waves. Over that I start chickening out a bit too often while dropping in. I'm working up to bigger waves, but on the big days I tend to find someplace more sheltered - that's when in Nova Scotia. The lakes have loads of breaks and it's just a matter of finding some shelter on a big choppy blown out day.

Enjoy the change of seasons there dude!


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 Post subject: Re: Surfing
PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 5:20 pm 
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http://sports.espn.go.com/los-angeles/n ... id=5771045

Slater wins his tenth in high style!


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 Post subject: Re: Surfing
PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 8:45 am 
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So went out of the back for the first time yesterday for 1/2 an hour. Wow head high waves seem so much bigger from the top looking down when they break. Got my feet under me on my first attempt on a non-broken, but in the utter chaos and shock I was up forgot to get on the accelerator and it broke and caught me in the wash. Still lots of fun spinning around under water with no idea which way is up for a few seconds.

Oh and why did none of you numb nuts warn me of the pain and suffering involved in paddling out to the back? so sore.


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 Post subject: Re: Surfing
PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 9:10 am 
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Hounsy wrote:
So went out of the back for the first time yesterday for 1/2 an hour

I just love sitting out there, feeling the swells pass under me, waiting for a wave

Hounsy wrote:
Wow head high waves seem so much bigger from the top looking down when they break.

It's so deceiving - if it were a ski hill you'd slide down it no problem, but it's a moving ski hill that gets steeper in deceptive ways. Then, once you fuck up, the mountain decides to jump on your head and drag you for a while...

Hounsy wrote:

Oh and why did none of you numb nuts warn me of the pain and suffering involved in paddling out to the back? so sore.


:woop:

:haha:

(the hippies are teaching you about the importance of stretching I hope)

Sounds like a blast!


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 Post subject: Re: Surfing
PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 9:36 am 
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Only skipped one daily yoga session. The instructed is no hippie she is a stunning Latin women that everyone says is the best female surfer on the beach.

Well off I go to my morning session, my arms are not going to like this and runour yesterday was that surf will be overhead. Should make for good footage, of us crashing.


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 Post subject: Re: Surfing
PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 12:38 pm 
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I really should pick up yoga... Lord knows I could pass for a swami, sans the nasty beard and unclipped nails...


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 Post subject: Re: Surfing
PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:21 pm 
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Building my second surfboard.

First one I made was a 6'6" headstone / simms / bar of soap. It's about 20" at the tail 23" in the middle 3" thick and still very thick at the tail. twin keels that I 'foiled' myself. Surfs weird. It enters waves really early, but needs a fast pop up - bit of weight on the front foot to get it going then it rides mostly on the back foot. I built it with 3.75" of nose rocker and no tail rocker. It's fun in small stuff but anything over waist to chest high it pearls pretty damn quickly. The tail has so much float and lift.

Currently I'm making a big slurpy - a 7'11" smimmons inspired wave hog. I took the specs of the "Fat Arsed Wombat" and added some length and a bit of width at the tail. This is built for jumping off the end of a pier with as it has so much foam duck diving will not be an option. 23&3/4" at it's widest and 2.75" of high density (2lb) xps foam,this is meant to be a really easy wave grabber. I foiled some single fins outta cedar. 9" long. I tapered the tail to 16" (I know it's big, but I want lift) and put most of the foam in the middle. I put 4.5" of nose rocker and about 1.25" of tail rocker onto it. I put a slight in the aft 1/3 of the bottom so hopefully I can make at least a single bottom turn when necessary. Essentially I'm trying to make boards that will fly down the line, pass through sections and just trim beautifully.

Rails are 50/50.

Nothing that could be ripped with, but I'm hoping to catch a few squishy lake waves with.

They look silly when you see the graceful shapes of today's short boards, but I've spent a huge amount of time reading about many retro shapes and I think these would be fun for the lake.

Oh yeah...

My bottom contours are not true bellies in the Simmons / Liddle style of displacement hulls. Those seem to work best on a fast, pushy point break. Here, I'm going for planing in the front and a bit of a 'v' in the aft section to try to get it turning.

We'll see how it goes.

I figure, I'm approaching surfing like the early surfers - making my own boards and learning it all by trial and error...

either that or I'm just a fucking kook!


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 Post subject: Re: Surfing
PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:49 pm 
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considering the SOP route now. figure if there are waves I can play in them and when not I can paddle around. Figure it could be a happy medium for around here. Thoughts Stinky?


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 Post subject: Re: Surfing
PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:53 pm 
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Hounsy wrote:
considering the SOP route now. figure if there are waves I can play in them and when not I can paddle around. Figure it could be a happy medium for around here. Thoughts Stinky?

They're fun till things get too big - knee to waist high they become loads of work. They're great on flat, knee high days. Loads of fun. Either way get a wetsuit. I'll have at least 3 boards. We'll hit Lake Erie - Crystal Beach - together some time this may / june?

If you want a lake board, I can make you one for the cost of materials...

It may not be perfect, but as beginners, neither are we.


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 Post subject: Re: Surfing
PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 3:40 pm 
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Rip Curl SF pro surfing event is happening 5 minutes (20 minute walk) from my house at Ocean Beach. All the top pros are there and it is likely that Kelly Slater will clinch his 11th world title at this event. This is my local break I surf here 1-2x per week. Went by Sunday afternoon with my daughter and a lot of the pros were in the water getting to know the break. Waves weren't great but they were ripping them apart like I have never seen. Better conditions today they are crushing it out there. Really high quality webcast link here:

http://live.ripcurl.com/index.php?Search2011LiveControl

Earlier one guy bailed with 6 minutes left in his heat because he saw a shark. Pussy! :kraken:

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 Post subject: Re: Surfing
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 11:45 am 
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Very, very cool. I've wasched some of the webcast. These guys must be friggin' unreal to see live though.

A side note: Sunday I turn 39 and will head. Out to Lake Erie to catch a few foamy mush-burgers. Next year I plan on usinf my Aeroplan points to go somewhere to surf on my 40th. I'll be able to go anywhere in Canada or the lower 48 states. Any places in Cali that you'd suggest checking out / staying away from?


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 Post subject: Re: Surfing
PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 12:19 am 
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Now Kelly has 11..


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 Post subject: Re: Surfing
PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 6:43 pm 
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Stinky wrote:
Now Kelly has 11..


I snuck out of work yesterday and went down there to see it. Saw most of his heat and was nearby when they carried him up the beach. I'm not a big pro surfing fan or anything but it was pretty cool. Then I went about a 1/2 mile down the beach and had a great surf session, it was great out there (5-7 feet with offshore winds) and felt pretty cool knowing that the top pros were nearby surfing the same waves!

As far as places in Cali for a visitor to surf: as far as I know the best variety and most consistently good surf are probably Santa Barbara, San Diego and Santa Cruz. In any of those places you can find whatever you are looking for from beginner break to ripper spot. They get crowded but if you are there mid-week it should be very manageable. Santa Barbara and San Diego have the benefit of warmer water. These are probably the best places to surf in the lower 48.

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 Post subject: Re: Surfing
PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 8:58 pm 
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Where you headed on Erie?


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 Post subject: Re: Surfing
PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 10:31 pm 
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Surf contest on sunday. I'm not going to compete - just hang out - even though the 'contest' is just an excuse to go surfing, remember a long time lake surfer (who I never met) and get a little hammered.

Check out these threads.

http://www.originsurf.ca/phpBB2/viewtop ... f=1&t=7011

http://www.originsurf.ca/phpBB2/viewtop ... f=1&t=7101

forecast for sunday seems to be waist to chest high depending on time of day:

http://www.originsurf.ca/phpBB2/viewtop ... 677#p39677

It might be crystal beach, it might be holloway bay.

I've never surfed Erie. Lake O looks to be flat.


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 Post subject: Re: Surfing
PostPosted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 10:51 am 
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The contest is off. No waves this weekend.


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 Post subject: Re: Surfing
PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 2:22 pm 
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Went out Christmas day to Bond Head (lake ontario) - jumped off the pier into waist to chest high rollers - nice carving long board wave - maybe 25 - 30 second long rides. Felt like forever - cutting back into the foam then hooking up with the re-form. I think I'm getting the hang of this surfing stuff.

Yesterday the wind was 20 - 30km/h. The air was -8 degrees, the water a balmy 2. There were 10 of us out at Kincardine (Lake huron)- jumping off the pier into head high to overhead waves. I dropped in and surfed some of the biggest waves I ever have before. I was even turning on the faces of them. The rides were a bit shorter before these big crumblers would close out in front of me, but really really fun.


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 Post subject: Re: Surfing
PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 2:33 pm 
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Stinky wrote:
Went out Christmas day to Bond Head (lake ontario) - jumped off the pier into waist to chest high rollers - nice carving long board wave - maybe 25 - 30 second long rides. Felt like forever - cutting back into the foam then hooking up with the re-form. I think I'm getting the hang of this surfing stuff.

Yesterday the wind was 20 - 30km/h. The air was -8 degrees, the water a balmy 2. There were 10 of us out at Kincardine (Lake huron)- jumping off the pier into head high to overhead waves. I dropped in and surfed some of the biggest waves I ever have before. I was even turning on the faces of them. The rides were a bit shorter before these big crumblers would close out in front of me, but really really fun.


Wow 25-30 second rides, overhead waves - I didn't know that existed on Lakes! That is awesome.

Surf has been great here recently, but a fair amount of double-overhead days that are not my scene anymore plus lots of family/xmas stuff so I have only been getting out once a week. Last Friday was clean head-high+ with tubes to be had. I pulled into a nice one and rode in it for a while but didn't make it out. This weekend is supposed to be good, starting out double-overhead but going down to nice head high+ for Sunday and Monday and I have Monday off so I hope to get out twice.

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 Post subject: Re: Surfing
PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 3:00 pm 
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Sounds like the conditions there are pretty darn good. Head high is a nice fun wave for me now. Double overhead seems a bit much - especially given the energy behind the Pacific waves you surf.

The wave period is crap - 6 seconds max, but Bond Head acts like a point break as the waves bend around a pier then the beach angles to the east.
When the swell is from the south west they peel for quite a while, then usually hit a bit of a channel, then reform. With a big honking log, I'm able to usually make it to the reform with out too much trouble. With thigh to waist / lower chest high waves this place works. When it's bigger, the waves break on outter sand bars and the rides are much more short on the outside - and having broken once on the outside, the inside waves don't have much power left and are pretty much shit.

At Kinkardine, I had my lake short board out. This guy: http://willersurfcraft.blogspot.com/ is an aids researcher / local shaper. Here's the board he made for me:
http://willersurfcraft.blogspot.com/201 ... anner.html

it's based on the design for the Von Sol Shadow - which seems like a 'trendy' board these days... I'm riding it as a twin and it's fast as hell and really skatey. Though yesterday on one of the bigger waves I dropped down the face was a chopped up mess and I really could have used a third fin for a bit of stability. I ate it pretty bad. Good fun. The wind is finally starting to come up around these parts so I hope to get a couple more days out before shore ice makes it impossible.


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 Post subject: Re: Surfing
PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 2:46 pm 
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Not sure if this is Stinky on Lake Erie or Ontario?

http://video.mpora.com/watch/5Pgs2slxu/hd/


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